Maple Planked Salmon with Maple Dijon Glaze

 

In a culinary world full of deconstructions, elaborate plating, shocking flavour combinations and specially-foraged ingredients we sometimes lose sight of the simple pleasures of eating. A set table, friends and family, a smoking barbecue – great food done simply.

Maple syrup and salmon may not sound like a winning flavour combination to some, but it is a pairing that has withstood the test of time and always, ALWAYS impresses even the pickiest eater – especially if you’re cooking the salmon on a plank.

Planking salmon is one of my favourite ways to cook the fish. You can buy maple or cedar planks in most grocery stores in Canada, or if you have access to a lumber yard you could have someone cut you some. Cooking the salmon on a plank adds a distinctive flavour and light smokiness, but since you’re cooking the fish indirectly it also remains moist and flaky. Topped with a great glaze, a well-planked filet of salmon is tough to beat on a beautiful summery evening.

And we have been having some lovely evenings lately. 

I was disappointed with the weather when we first arrived in Canada – mostly due to the gorgeous weather that exploded in Ireland as soon as we left! Even though I spent the majority of my life in Cape Breton, I couldn’t believe the leaves weren’t out on the trees (as they were in Ireland) and the daffodils weren’t in bloom (they were long finished in Ireland) when we arrived in early May.

We’re still waiting for the leaves, but it won’t be long now. We’ve also caught some trout, gone on walks and played in the sunshine with family and friends in the two + weeks since we arrived. This salmon, which we enjoyed last night with a dear family friend, was icing on the cake.

So you want to try planking your own salmon? Here’s the method I follow every time I plank (that sentence sounds so healthy, doesn’t it? If only.):

1. SOAK – you need to soak your planks for at least 1.5 hours before cooking with them.
2. TRIM – I buy an entire side of local salmon from the fish guy (who comes to the nearby village of Baddeck on Wednesdays to sell seafood out of his trailer).
3. CURE – I lightly cure the salmon for 30-45 minutes before cooking. Just sprinkle the trimmed side of salmon with even layers of salt and sugar (I don’t measure, but a few tablespoons of each should be enough). Leave it for 30-45 minutes and you’ll see how much excess water is drawn from the fish. It makes for a more succulent filet, but you don’t have to cure your salmon if you don’t want.
4. PORTION – A full side of salmon should provide around six generous filets. I sliced the side in half, then portioned each half into three.
5. RINSE – If you didn’t cure your salmon, don’t worry about this step. If you did, you’ll want to rinse the excess salt/sugar from the salmon with fresh, cold water.
6. DRY – Pat each filet dry with some paper towel.
7. PLANK – Transfer your salmon filets to the plank(s).
8. GLAZE – Brush some of your chosen glaze on the uncooked fish.
9. GRILL + GLAZE – The final step! Place the planked salmon on the barbecue grill (you can also do this in the oven – but it’s not as nice), close the lid and allow the salmon to cook slowly on medium for about 15-20 minutes (keep an eye – it will take a bit of time for the planks to heat the salmon, but it won’t be longer than 20 minutes). Intermittently, you can add more glaze as the heat and smoke does its work.

This sounds like a lot of work, but like any great meal, if you’re prepared and organized it will come together so, so easily. Serve with wild rice or roasted potatoes and sauteed greens (some nice wine won’t go amiss, either).

Here’s the recipe for my favourite maple glaze:

Maple Dijon Glaze for Planked Salmon

Ingredients:

1/3 cup/80ml good quality, medium or dark maple syrup

1/4 cup/60g Dijon mustard

1/2 Tbsp each: finely chopped fresh chives, parsley, dill, oregano

Salt and Pepper, to taste

Directions:

• In a small bowl, mix the maple syrup, dijon and fresh herbs.
• Season with salt and pepper.
• Add some glaze to the uncooked salmon, then add more while the salmon cooks.

Where We Swim

The winters in Cape Breton are long, bitterly cold and full of snow. Some years, the snow is still here in May. Some years, we don’t get much of a spring. Like this year. There was snow on the ground only several short weeks ago and now it’s incredibly hot – summer has been in full swing since late June.

There isn’t much air conditioning in Cape Breton. It doesn’t get as hot here as it does in Toronto, for example, where air con is a must-have during the summer months. But we have something that many other areas don’t, something that cools you down completely and leaves you feeling comfortable for the rest of the day: a gorgeous river to swim in.

Growing up, my brothers and I lived for summer swims in the river. My parents would faithfully take us every day and we’d splash and swim and dive to our hearts’ content. This river is special. It’s not murky or dark. It’s cold and refreshing. The pools we frequent are deep enough to swim and dive, but the water is clear enough to see all the way to the bottom.

There are a few different parts of the river that are good for swimming – Chuck’s, Danny Neil’s and The Yankee Line are the three most popular.

I don’t know what it is about this river. In all my travels I haven’t come across another that compares to it. I’ve seen some great rivers – The Han in Korea, The Mekong in Laos, The Shannon in Ireland – and charming smaller rivers. I’ve enjoyed them all and appreciated their beauty. But I haven’t found a river as cold, refreshing, clear or as relatively isolated as the river running through my tiny community.

For the record, Maeve has been enjoying her time in the river, too!

*These pictures were taken at Danny Neil’s, near my house, in Middle River, Cape Breton.The deepest spot is about 8 feet and the slope is gradual, making this an ideal place to bring your kids. I won’t give more info than this because we don’t want the place overrun with visitors – but if you can find it, I hope you enjoy a well-deserved swim!

A Happy Belated Canada Day (Among Other Things)

Hi all!

Time here in Cape Breton is flying. As I re-read my last post I can’t believe the difference a week makes.

It’s been hot. Hellishly, devilishly hot. Low-mid 30’s every day with high humidity. My dad and I have been spending a lot of time swimming in the river and Maeve has been living in the bathtub and kiddie pool – the heat has been a lot for that little Irish lass to take. She’s uncomfortable and hot going to sleep and wakes up in the night, suddenly freezing! Needless to say I’ve had a few restless nights (and ungodly early mornings).

Maeve’s been enjoying her time with my family and friends.

Early mornings are my new thing, it would seem, because I’ve taken a part time job at a local business in town (about a 20 minute drive from my parents’ house). Yes, folks, I’m back in the kitchen and loving it – even in this incredible heat. I’ve been taking care of their baking and desserts and getting up very early in the morning to do so.

I’ve always cherished those quiet early hours in restaurant kitchens – before the other cooks arrive, before the hectic lunch service – and I’m loving being the first one in this kitchen three days a week. It’s been a great job for easing me back in the industry (for when I get back to Ireland) and, also, I’m cooking my favourite kinds of food here – homey, delicious breads and desserts using lots of local fruits and berries. Low-fuss and humble, just like us Cape Bretoners (right?!).

Wild Strawberries devoured by little hands.

I’ve been working my way through a lot of my favourite home-foods but haven’t really gotten around everywhere – especially not with my camera. So those posts will have to wait. But I have been eating lots of delicious BBQ dishes with my mom and dad, and tonight we had my father’s famous fried haddock. I could eat 100 lbs of it in one sitting.

On Canada Day Maeve and I were invited onto my employer’s float for the annual parade in Baddeck. I really think this was the best way for Maeve to experience the parade – I mean, she didn’t get freaked out by all the strange, noisy floats slowing going down the street; instead she got to ride shotgun in a pickup truck and wave to all the smiling people on the side of the road (if you’ve ever met my baby, you’ll know she loves waving to strangers). After the parade we enjoyed a BBQ with family.

My dad’s weird sense of humour. He’s missing an antler…

That said, I miss my husband. I left him in Ireland and he’s not going to be here until August. It really hits home how much he does to help with the baby when he’s not here, so we’re counting down the days til he arrives. I think he’s secretly enjoying his lie-ins and uninterrupted soccer matches, personally (do I sound bitter? I don’t mean to.).

Bunchberry blossoms replaced by berries within a week.

Wild strawberries – much smaller and sweeter than cultivated!

Rhubarb ready for baking.

Our garden continues to grow, our chipmunks are growing fatter and I’m keeping an eye on all the wild berries that will soon be ready for the picking (the strawberries and bunchberries are nearly there – the blueberries, blackberries and raspberries will be coming up in late July-early August).

Our little friend wants to escape the black flies as much as the humans…

I promise to post a recipe soon. This is supposed to be a food blog, after all. In the meantime, please enjoy these pictures taken around my backyard. Yeah, there’s a pond.

The backyard. Great fishin’ spot!

The trail from the pond to the house.

Loving Cape Breton.

Cheers! And Happy Belated Canada Day!

Welcome Home.

One four hour flight, a three hour layover and then another 1.5 hour flight and I was home in Nova Scotia. Maeve and I were greeted by sunshine, light breezes (they didn’t last – it was freezing soon after) and my mom and Aunt Joan.

A quick stay in Halifax with my Aunt & Uncle and we were back in Cape Breton last Sunday. I can’t tell you how good it feels to be home. It’s so great to see Maeve with my family – most of whom she’s never met – and see their reactions to her.

Today is sunny and warm. Not as hot as Ireland has been, but low 20’s and a light breeze – perfect for walks and patio BBQ’s. We’ve been eating some great food, and even better meals are to come.

So what’s happening in Cape Breton right now? Well, a lot, really.

There are blooming buds everywhere. Lupins are Nova Scotia’s most iconic flower and they’re in full bloom now – covering the roadsides and ditches with waves of purple, pink and white.

Blueberries

Highbush Cranberry

Bunchberries, blueberries, and small wild strawberries are blossoming, as are the highbush cranberries.

The hay is getting high around the two red barns across from my house. The honeysuckle is thriving and creating lots of food for honeybees.

My mom’s garden is slowly coming to life. I say slowly because in Ireland we’ve already had rhododendron, peony and rose season and in CB they’re still working on rhododendrons. But the herbs are loving the cool, wet weather and we’ve got lots of chives and oregano ready to snip.

The birds, moose, beavers, eagles and rabbits are out. We have a pair of chipmunks living near our strawberry patch; Maeve was delighted with them. It’s just getting started here, but I think this is going to be a good summer.

More to come!